RESIDENTIAL WOOD FENCING IN Des Moines, Iowa

Custom-built wood fences designed for privacy, durability, and curb appeal.

A residential wood fence is one of the most popular and versatile fencing options for homeowners in Iowa. Whether you’re looking to increase privacy, secure your yard, or enhance your home’s appearance, wood fencing offers a natural, customizable solution built to handle Iowa's changing seasons.

BENEFITS OF RESIDENTIAL WOOD FENCING in Des Moines

BEST WOOD TYPES FOR FENCES IN Des Moines, Iowa

Wood Fence FAQ

Is cedar still my best choice for wood fencing in Des Moines, IA?

In Des Moines, IA, homeowners should be aware that the cedar used in today’s fencing products is very different from what was available decades ago. Due to limited supplies of old-growth cedar and strict forestry regulations across the United States and Canada, most cedar now comes from fast-growing, younger trees. These trees develop very little heartwood—the dense, naturally durable inner portion—and are harvested at smaller sizes, resulting in lumber made primarily from lighter sapwood.

For properties in Des Moines, this difference matters. Sapwood cedar does not offer the same natural resistance to weather, insects, and decay that traditional heartwood cedar was known for. As a result, modern cedar fencing typically has a shorter lifespan and may require more maintenance to perform well through Iowa's seasonal weather conditions compared to the long-lasting reputation cedar once held.

Today’s cedar fencing from sapwood cannot hold up to its reputation as the preferred choice for longevity in exterior applications as its lifespan is considerably shorter compared to yesterday’s heartwood cedar fencing.

What are my options over cedar?

With the restrictions and limitations on harvesting old growth cedar, the wood industry has moved on to more abundant species such as Douglas fir, white fir and incense cedar.

These species are in great abundance in older growth trees, providing more options for fencing boards. Because these species like Douglas fir are being harvested from heartwood, these are proving to outperform cedar the fencing industry. Though you may not get to enjoy that rich cedar smell, you will get several years of longevity from these species. Besides, after a while, the smell of cedar is just too much to handle.

Is treated wood better than western red, incense cedar or Douglas fir?

Treated materials just can’t compare to the natural beauty of cedar and Douglas Fir. However, treated and stained white and red pine have proven to be an excellent choice for fence posts. Pine is a very dense wood that provides considerable strength. When treated with an ACQ or ACQ2 pressure treatment, the wood becomes almost impenetrable. Treated materials may be easily stained providing a darker color compared to your cedar and Douglas Fir rails and pickets. The contrast in colors does provide a nice combination.

However, red and white pine posts will form "checks" as the posts begin to dry after treatment. These checks are long thin cracks that form along the grain of the post. This is a natural process to be expected that does not compromise the strength or longevity of the post. You should only be concerned if these cracks dig deep through the post where you can see daylight.

Also, red and white pine posts are prone to twist slightly. Again, this is part of the natural maturation process of the material. This twisting is a result of uneven drying of the post. It does not compromise the quality or longevity of the post.

Do I need to stain my Douglas fir or cedar fence?

If you want to maintain that reddish and blonde cedar color in your Des Moines, IA fence, consider staining it within six weeks of installation. Make sure the wood is completely dry before applying stain—ideally after at least a week without rain. Dry conditions common during Iowa summers help the wood absorb stain more effectively.

When hiring a staining contractor in Des Moines, always choose an insured professional. Fence staining can be messy and may lead to overspray on nearby homes, neighboring properties, vehicles, or patios. Plan to stain on calm, dry days, and take the time to protect surrounding areas like houses, sheds, and adjacent fences with tape and drop cloths to avoid damage to landscaping and lawns.

Applying stain with a brush can be challenging due to the rough texture of most wood fencing. Rolling is easier but may lead to drips and uneven coverage. Spraying is typically the most efficient method if done carefully. For best results, spray the fence first and then follow up quickly with a brush to ensure even distribution and proper penetration.

Stain should be applied in smooth, continuous strokes for consistent coverage. Unlike paint, if you plan to apply more than one coat, the second coat must go on while the first is still wet. Waiting too long between coats can prevent proper adhesion and may lead to peeling over time.

In most climates, you can expect to re-stain your fence every 2 to 3 years. Be mindful of sprinkler systems, as frequent water exposure can cause uneven fading or discoloration. While Douglas fir tends to hold its natural color longer than cedar, both will begin to weather to a gray tone within six to twelve months without maintenance.

Why is cedar fencing so popular in Des Moines?

Forty years ago, cedar fence boards were rich with dark orange, red, and brown hues. The boards also had a very strong, unmistakable strong cedar smell. Back then, cedar fencing came from old growth cedar trees. When the trees were harvested, the trunks were as big around as a car, mostly comprised of heart wood with a few outer sapwood rings.

What is the difference between sap wood and heartwood?

These outer, lighter colored rings, sapwood, is the "working" part of the tree, as water and sap will flow through the sapwood much like blood through your arteries, veins and capillaries. While this part of the trunk is vital to the tree when it is living, it doesn’t make for very good stock for fencing and exterior applications. Sapwood contains a lot of moisture, will shrink considerably when dried, and is much more susceptible to fungus.

The inner, darker section of the trunk is the heartwood. Heartwood is formed from old, "retired" sapwood, and becomes the strong spine of the tree. Heartwood is preferred for fencing, as it is far less susceptible to fungus and doesn’t contain nearly as much moisture as sapwood, which means it will shrink less when dried. Many mills that specialize in cedar decorative exterior cedar posts and beams will actually remove the sapwood and use only heartwood.

Once the tree has "promoted" some of its sapwood to heartwood status, the sap will stop flowing through that part of the wood and the converting material essentially dies. As part of the conversion process, the pores will begin to plug up with organic matter which causes the cell walls to change color due to the presence of chemicals called extractives. The extractives are responsible for the rich character, odor and colors found in heartwoods.

Should I use cedar or treated pine fence posts?

If the concrete footing is placed to shed water from the posts, cedar or treated pine is fine. We will use premium cedar post or ACQ2 treated and stained posts. Though the treated pine posts are subject to forming checks and a slight twist, these posts have proven to outlast cedar. Cedar is less prone to form any cracking or twisting but it will occasionally warp. If not stained, cedar posts will eventually “grey out”.

Are treated materials safe for my family and pets?

Only use industry approved ACQ treated posts. Stay clear of using CCA (Cooper Chromate Arsenic) materials. If unsure how the materials are coated, look for a tag at either end of the post or inquire with your fence contractor.

What about Wood Gates?

Only use a heavy duty 4” x 6” posts on the hinge side of your 6’ tall gate. We recommend using three hinges per gate. Make sure all hardware is powder coated to avoid rusting.

Will I have maintenance issues with my wood gates?

Gates are set with two independent gate posts on opposite sides of your gate opening. Gate posts are subject to settling of unsettled soil, frost, extreme changes in temperatures, and exposure to the sun, which can cause gate posts to change or move. Even the slightest change in the position of the hinge post will result in an exponential movement of the latch hasp on the gate. Bottom line, your gate won’t latch because the latch hasp does not align with the latch receiver on the gate post.

What can I do to fix my gates?

A standard drop fork latch will not be impacted by movement in your gate posts. These are the latches that look like two prong pitch forks that move up and down. If you have this type of latch, you should be fine. Latches that use a horizontal rod that strikes or falls into a receiver when the gate is closed will need to be adjusted. Latches that look like a standard door lock assembly will also need adjustment. If you have either of these types of latching or locking mechanisms, you should request four-way adjustable hinges. These are hinges that adjust up and down and in and out. With these hinges, you will be able to adjust your gate to changing conditions.

What nails do I need for my wood fence?

A galvanized or aluminized nail that is counter sunk to avoid popping-out is your best bet.