RESIDENTIAL WOOD FENCING IN Martensdale, Iowa

Custom-built wood fences designed for privacy, durability, and curb appeal.

A residential wood fence is a dependable and versatile option for homeowners in Iowa. Whether you're trying to create a private retreat, secure your yard, or elevate your property's appearance, wood fencing provides a natural, customizable solution made for Iowa's changing seasons.

BENEFITS OF RESIDENTIAL WOOD FENCING in Martensdale

BEST WOOD TYPES FOR FENCES IN Martensdale, Iowa

Wood Fence FAQ

Is cedar still my best choice for wood fencing in Martensdale, IA?

At Amerian Fence Company Company, our Project Managers take the lead in guiding you through a smooth installation process. From estimates to scheduling and final construction, we ensure every step of your fencing project is handled with care and precision.

Today’s cedar fencing from sapwood cannot hold up to its reputation as the preferred choice for longevity in exterior applications as its lifespan is considerably shorter compared to yesterday’s heartwood cedar fencing.

What are my options over cedar?

Due to tight restrictions on harvesting old-growth cedar, the lumber industry has shifted toward more readily available species like Douglas fir, white fir, and incense cedar.

These woods are commonly sourced from mature trees with substantial heartwood, making them strong options for fencing. Materials like Douglas fir, in particular, tend to outperform cedar in durability. While they may lack cedar’s signature aroma, they make up for it with longer-lasting performance—and for some, that strong cedar scent isn’t missed.

Is treated wood better than western red, incense cedar or Douglas fir?

Even though treated wood can’t rival the appearance of cedar or Douglas fir, treated and stained white and red pine make excellent fence posts. Pine’s density provides reliable strength, and ACQ or ACQ2 treatments enhance its resistance to moisture and decay. Staining adds a deeper tone, offering an attractive contrast with lighter fencing materials.

"Checks" often appear in treated pine as it dries—these are thin cracks that follow the grain. They are a normal occurrence and don’t weaken the wood. Only when cracks extend fully through the post should there be concern.

Slight twisting is another natural characteristic of pine posts. Caused by uneven drying, this movement does not impact the structural integrity or longevity of the material.

Do I need to stain my Douglas fir or cedar fence?

To keep your cedar fence looking fresh in Martensdale, IA, stain it within six weeks of installation. Make sure the wood is dry after at least a week without rain. Dry summers in Iowa improve stain absorption.

Choose an insured contractor in Martensdale to minimize overspray risks. Protect surrounding areas and stain on calm days.

Brushing is difficult, rolling can drip, and spraying is the most effective method. Follow spraying with brushing for even coverage.

Apply stain evenly and add additional coats while the first is still wet.

Re-stain every 2 to 3 years. Avoid sprinkler overspray. Both cedar and Douglas fir will weather to gray over time.

Why is cedar fencing so popular in Martensdale?

In earlier decades, cedar fence boards were known for their deep reddish and brown tones and their powerful natural fragrance. These materials came from old-growth cedar trees with large trunks, mostly filled with heartwood and only a few rings of sapwood on the outside.

What is the difference between sap wood and heartwood?

The outer sapwood layer, lighter in color, is responsible for moving water and nutrients through the tree. While critical for growth, it is not the best material for fencing due to its high moisture content, tendency to shrink, and susceptibility to fungus.

The darker heartwood forms deeper within the trunk as sapwood ages and becomes inactive. This section provides structural strength and resists decay, making it ideal for fencing. Many mills remove sapwood entirely to produce stronger, longer-lasting products.

As sapwood transforms into heartwood, sap flow ceases and organic materials accumulate in the cells. These extractives create the rich colors, distinctive smell, and durability associated with heartwood.

Should I use cedar or treated pine fence posts?

If the concrete footing is placed to shed water from the posts, cedar or treated pine is fine. We will use premium cedar post or ACQ2 treated and stained posts. Though the treated pine posts are subject to forming checks and a slight twist, these posts have proven to outlast cedar. Cedar is less prone to form any cracking or twisting but it will occasionally warp. If not stained, cedar posts will eventually “grey out”.

Are treated materials safe for my family and pets?

Only use industry approved ACQ treated posts. Stay clear of using CCA (Cooper Chromate Arsenic) materials. If unsure how the materials are coated, look for a tag at either end of the post or inquire with your fence contractor.

What about Wood Gates?

Only use a heavy duty 4” x 6” posts on the hinge side of your 6’ tall gate. We recommend using three hinges per gate. Make sure all hardware is powder coated to avoid rusting.

Will I have maintenance issues with my wood gates?

Gates are installed using two separate posts on either side of the opening. These posts can shift over time due to settling soil, freeze-thaw cycles, temperature swings, and sun exposure. Even a small movement in the hinge post can cause a much larger misalignment at the latch, preventing it from lining up with the receiver and keeping the gate from closing properly.

What can I do to fix my gates?

The classic drop fork latch, with its vertical two-prong design, is not affected by shifting gate posts and typically continues to operate smoothly. Latches that use a horizontal rod or resemble standard door locks are more prone to misalignment and may require adjustment. For these setups, four-way adjustable hinges are a smart solution, offering both vertical and horizontal adjustments.

What nails do I need for my wood fence?

A galvanized or aluminized nail that is counter sunk to avoid popping-out is your best bet.